Sunday, 14 February 2021

Parti-coloured blue and pink dress


I kept thinking of this as my medieval party frock. It definitely feels like something one might wear on a festival day rather than whilst doing the messy chores around the manor. 

The image I based my dress on:
It is from a manuscript dated to 1410, but my reenactor friends say this style was popular in the 1370s. I like to imagine an elderly monk, drawing on his memory of court fashion from his youth for styling his illuminations.

This dress came together petty fast so I don't have any 'making of' photos but I was really pleased to come up with a dress that fits whilst basically not knowing what I was doing.

I was enchanted with the idea of a 'six panel' dress which some friends told me was more historically accurate and more easy to alter the dress later if I changed size ... but in the end it looked like I had just reinvented the princess seam, only worse as it came out on the mock-up looking pretty pointy in the bust area. 

I made three mock ups in soft, thin cotton which hung very differently from this medium-weight cotton-that-is-supposed-to-look-like-linen. 

What I learned: I am not a draper, I am a pattern person. Also always do mock ups in a similar weight fabric.

I can do cloth buttons though.



Front view



Back view


See the cloth buttons! I hand embroidered the gold lines on the cuffs and neckline. I plan to do the hem when I am sure I like the length - after I dance in it at least once.

a spare button on the underside of the hem JUST IN CASE. And because I can. ;)
Cloth buttons on the other side. 

My sweet husband took this photo and taught me how to put the images together in paint!




 

Sunday, 3 January 2021

Recreating 'The Portrait of a Lady' by Jacopo Zucchi

I asked my friends in the historical music and dance world about this portrait. What did she wear underneath the dress? They were unanimous in thinking she wore a pair of bodies - see here for how I made those! They liked the button attachment, that's a nifty detail, much faster to get on or off as opposed to lacings. 

See here for how I did all the undergarments!

Janet Arnold wrote a great deal about Eleanor Di Toledo's funeral dress, which I used as the basis for this gown.

This is an Italian portrait:


Some of the best preserved historic garments from this era are from Italy.



The bodice

I cut this out a few times. I just assumed I would be a larger size than Eleanor de Toledo but it turns out we were the same size! I lengthened the bodice a bit based on the portrait, it just seemed to extend quite low but now I wish I hadn't.
my pattern pieces. I taped together pieces of graphing paper.

I tried cutting one out of velvet and lining with the navy linen but I didn't like how the linen wrinkled and was a different color. It was during lockdown so I couldn't go to the fabric store, and most of my online sellers weren't functioning so I ended up lining it in more velvet. It's the same price as linen if not cheaper, y'all. It's also cotton velvet so it breathes. Supposedly.


The skirt

Measuring the skirt - no pattern pieces for this, it was huge! I cut it 10cm too short but it was still too long so whatev. I wish I had not folded the velvet back on itself to cut the skirt. By the time I realized the nap of the two front sections was going in different directions, I had run out of fabric. I had ordered 8 metres, which I thought was a couple extra than required, so I was pretty shocked.

the sleeves!
My first attempt at the sleeves was a flop. I realized each scallop was its own piece. They took ages, but were surprisingly portable. I used to carry a pocketful of scallops to the park and sew whilst the kids played, or whilst people did their readings to me.





some of the buttons I got for this project. The plastic gold colored ones ended up being the winners for the sleeves. The square ones for the waist detail and headpiece.

The sleeve backs.

The sleeve fronts - they can stand on their own!

progress so far at this point

hand sewing the lacings took an epoch!

My amazing sister in law did this gold embroidery by the way!


Accessories

This is the part of my journey I definitely would have floundered if not with help from my friends.

A friend sent this jewelry, which she made, from Florida! 

Jewelry making is definitely not something I can ever imagine being good at!
My middle son helped me decide which headbands to order from ebay! We doctored the pearl one slightly.
I bought these gloves years ago from a theatre sale. They are a little discolored but you can't tell in the portrait. I don't know anything about Elizabethan glovemaking so I daresay these are entirely wrong but the lady in the portrait has gloves - so token gloves here.



Costs

If you are my mom, don't read this. You would be horrified.

Remember everyone who does read this that this was my hobby for a year. Some people spend more on a gym membership or a personal trainer or sewing classes or going out for coffees!

39 in thread and buttons on ebay
24 in thread on amazon
67 in dress fabric - 8 metres
25 on linen
2 lace
26 on shoes
=£157 materials, £183 including shoes


Thoughts on the lady

I have been staring at this portrait for a year now. At first I thought she was a lady about to get married. Maybe the portrait was taken to the suitor her father selected who lived far away, like how Albrecht Durer sent his future wife a self portrait.

Then I realized this woman doesn't seem like a dewy-eyed, just-off-leading-strings debutante. There's some softening of the chin and neck and she's quite well developed (more than I, but that has less to do with age!). She is a mature woman.

Perhaps she got married later in life?

But after spending a small fortune on the materials, I think she's a wife of a wealthy merchant or a lord. You wouldn't spend this much on a daughter. You would bedeck your wife with this to show off your good fortune, to sell your wares.

She is also wearing rings on both hands.

Another reason to have your portrait taken other than to send to prospective suitors was to have something for your family to remember you if you died in childbirth, as one in three women did. Your child might survive and never remember his or her mother, so a portrait could be the only visual link. 

The final project!

It is actually quite a warm dress. I am standing in snow and perfectly warm. The sleeves are so easy to get on - I'm glad she put buttons on it! My children trod on the train a few times the day I wore it but otherwise it is a mostly functional dress.

Portrait of a Lady allowing herself a friendly smile


Shift and undergarments for 'Portrait of a Lady' project

There is a theory that you ought to begin your historical costuming projects inside-out, that is starting with the skin and working from there. Being interested (cough, obsessed) with doing things The Right Way, I duly sewed the shift first. It was a disaster. It never matched up to the finished outer garment. I ended up having to redo it. 

The original monstrosity - the sleeves will never puff enough and the neckline is wrong. The embroidery was botched by me trying to do it all on the sewing machine! It's coming undone on the side...but I digress.


Here is the new, improved shift:
closeup with both sleeves

The sleeve detail

I cheated on this embroidery. I used black tatted lace for the large leafs. I did the zigzag stitch in black and the gold straight stitches by machine. The small leafs and swirls were by hand.

I forgot to add this lace at the last minute - there's always something!


I made this bum roll first thing just out of fabric round the house - I had an 'Elizabethan' pattern for it.

I also had a Victorian set of hoops. I adjusted the hoops to being a LOT narrower, eventually 100 inches circumference but it ought to have been 90 inches tops I reckon.


Full length of shift

quite the wingspan so the shoulders can 'fluff through' the buttons.

Pair of bodies/stays of Sabina Von Neuburg

Who doesn't love Janet Arnold? I borrowed this book before lockdown and the library system said I should keep it for most of the YEAR. I ought to be breathing and thinking in sync with Janet Arnold now.

The pair of bodies of Sabina Von Neuburg - National Museum, Munich were the inspiration. They were made in ivory silk now discolored to yellowy-brown. Ivory wasn't in stock in the attic so I went with hot pink.

It had a busk. And whalebones, which I didn't do obviously. I did plastic boning. Three layers of linen. 6mm (1/4 inch) apart stitching, 26 channels. 

Janet Arnold assumes that one layer of linen and silk were stitched together, then lined with the last layer of linen. Neckline is bound with ribbon giving 6mm finish width on the right side. She says, feels as if it was originally 13 mm or half inch wide, folded in half over, the raw edges of the armholes finished in the same way. A 5/8 inch seam allowance is visible. Back is tied with the original ribbon, now dark brown and 3/8 of an inch wide.


I was sharing the craft table aka the kitchen table with the kids! 


Back holes were supposed to be level and have a metal ring on front and back and then bound with thread, quite bulky at 3/8 inch wide. I ended up ordering grommits -- didn't know where to find 3/8 inch wide metal rings - and then bound with thread. Took AGES! Weeks. Was very dubious - but turns out it's easier to lace them this way. The ribbon doesn't try to come undone every time you blink.

7 meters of ribbon 4 mm wide to tie it up! 

I finished the pair of bodies! Or so I thought. I realized later I  need to recover it in matching velvet to my outer dress, otherwise I keep flashing bits of hot pink between lacings and at the shoulders!

Sunday, 29 March 2020

Balancing Parent and Educator

I read one homeschooling manual which recommends that kids call their mom 'Mrs. Ward' during school and 'Mom' during non-school time. Talk about fostering a split personality! I would never go so far myself but it does flag up an interesting issue of separating your different roles in your child's life.

This is written from the perspective of more than 30 years in the homeschool world - first as a child being homeschooled myself in a family with 9 children and now as a homeschool teacher of my own kids.

In my experience there are days which are totally given over to homeschool verses other days totally given over to parenting.



There were days when my mom was a stellar teacher - but she really only spoke to us when reading Socrates outloud or whipping through our checklist or doing 'group time' which included Latin drills, grammar songs, and logic. A lot of teaching happened, but not a lot of parenting.

There were other days when Mom disciplined us, forced everyone to brush their teeth and flossed for them, taught people how to tie their shoes, took us to dentist appointments, changed diapers, fed us three meals and we didn't get any school done. She just parented.

And that is okay.



I have known a lot of homeschoolers who seemed skewed all of the time one way or the other. They were either brilliant academicians or amazing disciplinarians/etiquette-instructors but not both.

I've known a lot of academically superior homeschoolers who were absolute savages. Their mother - who usually has a phD or at least a masters - did a brilliant job educating them, but they were wild, snot-nosed brats who didn't have bedtimes, regular baths, dental hygiene, expectations for how they dressed in public, enforced rules about siblings' or other people's personal space or property. Once I saw a kid snatch his older sister's birthday presents and rip them open without permission - that's to be expected in a 1 year old but this kid was 6! One such mother told me: 'I raise children who are a bit free range' but inside I was thinking 'or let's just call them completely feral!' These kids have no problem with multiplication tables, but tell little girls at homeschool events that they are rubbish at games and make them cry.
actual footage of what boys sneak off to do at homeschool event

On the other end of the spectrum you have homeschool parents who are nurturing but firm disciplinarians. They raise emotionally-intelligent, mature human beings who know how to shake hands with grown-ups, make eye contact, brush their teeth, and have a regular schedule for sleep, eating and bathing. These mothers' gift is parenting but these mothers are usually the ones who wail to other parents at support groups about how under-achieving they are academically. They tend to outsource the teaching of certain subjects and scramble at years' end to finish a grade for more than one child. Their kids often miss homeschool events because they didn't finish their homework, and everyone is bummed because those kids are the most pleasant ones to have around.

I have occasionally met moms who were good at both but they tend to have dark circles under their eyes. They also have a grace for themselves and come up with strategies to help with the follow-through, such as:

  • being consistent (though everyone has a Pregnancy Mode and a Not Pregnant Mode)
  • choose your battle's time - if the kids are freshest for academics in the morning, school in the mornings
  • have a routine including Nap time or at least down time for Mom if not anyone else
  • turn flaws into strengths - you know - the child who is bossy has 'leadership potential' etc. But this works for mothers too. If you're blasted by 10 am and need to lie down during baby's first nap, just run a 7-10 am school day every day year round and don't take the summers off. Do evaluate after a few months - the ones 8 and up might need to work a bit longer especially if they enjoy slow motion schooling.


What are the results? The academically superior families generally turn out successful kids who get dream jobs handed to them.... and suddenly have epiphanies in their late teens about appropriate dressing and teeth brushing. They tend not to marry or relate well inter-personally into their twenties.

The well-disciplined children tend to get less glamorous jobs but get married to great people and have many friends. It's a shame to see some really intelligent people with loads of Christian university debt working minimum wage jobs but these people often manage to interview well and eventually climb up the ladder, or find a high flying wife or husband who supports them so it doesn't hurt them in the long run too much.


Priorities

It can be so easy as a homeschool parent to get wrapped up in the numbers and checklists, and lose sight of the child.

Disclaimer: I am aware that a number of the academically superior are on the autism spectrum or have other struggles which make basic etiquette harder than the Pythagorean theorem. But I would argue they need more - not less - training in learned 'high functioning' behaviors. They will eventually learn the hard way if you don't manage to get through to them.

On the one hand, if your kids are doing great academically but are absolute horrors at church or in public because of a lack of discipline, you should probably take off from school to discuss these issues with your husband and come up with some new rules. Just be consistent about follow-through.

If on the other hand it's been months since you actually sat down and spoke to a child about something other than schoolwork, that's a problem. Ask someone to babysit so you can take that child on a date! [Coronovirus version: get your spouse to watch the other kids so you can play a boardgame or eat icecream alone in the kitchen with that child!]

It is also possible to be the other extreme of not really getting any schoolwork done, but doing a lot of parenting and still be exhausted. I find it helpful to step back at times like this and try to find new ways to either self-motivate the kids, help them start new and better habits, re-prioritize my own checklist or in the most recent times we put a lock on the lego room door and that door does not open till all the school is done! We have become a lot higher achieving at school since, surprise surprise.


So if you have to err one way or the other, to which extreme do you go?

Clearly if you choose to homeschool and your child is gifted academically, it would be like burying a talent to ignore that gift.

Is it worth losing sight of character training and discipline? Whether you homeschool or not, parenting - creating boundaries and standards - is important for a child and Prov 22:6 would back me up on that. It is important for producing children who will be good workers, friends, citizens and spouses someday.

Both are important.

With the coronovirus outbreak, suddenly most people are having a lot more time and opportunity to parent their children -4-10 hours more per day for some people! It can be hard work.

In the face of the plethora of online advice which mostly seems to be the 'don't stress' and 'have fun lolling about under blankets watching tv' sort of breed of advice I would like to say to you make the most of it. You may never have this sort of concentrated time with your kids again - with so few distractions and outside commitments.

Don't waste all your energy making it fun for the kids. If you have energy, put it towards the kids' futures. Towards storing knowledge and building integrity. They will thank you someday.

I myself would choose disciplining over academics if I had to choose - though ideally I'd have both. I feel I was a parent first, homeschooler second. You can only get so far in life as a grumpy genius or spoiled savant.