Shift and undergarments for 'Portrait of a Lady' project

There is a theory that you ought to begin your historical costuming projects inside-out, that is starting with the skin and working from there. Being interested (cough, obsessed) with doing things The Right Way, I duly sewed the shift first. It was a disaster. It never matched up to the finished outer garment. I ended up having to redo it. 

The original monstrosity - the sleeves will never puff enough and the neckline is wrong. The embroidery was botched by me trying to do it all on the sewing machine! It's coming undone on the side...but I digress.

Here is the new, improved shift:

closeup with both sleeves

The sleeve detail

I cheated on this embroidery. I used black tatted lace for the large leafs. I did the zigzag stitch in black and the gold straight stitches by machine. The small leafs and swirls were by hand.

I forgot to add this lace at the last minute - there's always something!

I made this bum roll first thing just out of fabric round the house - I had an 'Elizabethan' pattern for it.

I also had a Victorian set of hoops. I adjusted the hoops to being a LOT narrower, eventually 100 inches circumference but it ought to have been 90 inches tops I reckon.

Full length of shift

quite the wingspan so the shoulders can 'fluff through' the buttons.